Installation Guide


Here is a step by step guide. It's not rocket science, but it helps a little to read and plan it out before you get stuck into it.

Some handy tools to have ready:

  1. Sharp stanley knife
  2. Strong scissors
  3. Large flat bladed plastic paint scraper
  4. White spirits on the ready if you need to address any spills
  5. Soldering iron if you have one
  6. Spare paint brushes and flat spreaders for your contact adhesive

Speaking of adhesive, I have found that the brush on stuff is better than the spray on stuff. Choose your product of choice and 'adhere' to the instructions.

Before you start, leave the pieces out in the sun. A little warmth makes them slightly more supple.

Ready to roll.

1 - Rear Seat Support.

Start by placing the rear seat support piece. You will need to trim a little around the tunnel and ensure that the piece is level. Leave about 10-20mm to go under the tunnel piece. The top vinyl piece should be left until the end. Let the vertical piece set in place before you fold it over and glue it. Be sure not to add too much bulk on top to the seat support as the rear seat will become difficult to reinstall. When you place the rear door cards you may need to trim off a little carpet on either side. 



2 - Tunnel

Place the tunnel piece starting from the hand brake lever. Ensure that the back of the piece reaches the rear seat support before committing to final placement. Cut holes for your shift lever and park brake carefully. We've marked the underside as a guide. Measure twice, cut once. Depending on console type, care needs to be taken trimming at the gear lever. Short consoles will need accurate trimming whereas long consoles and auto consoles can be a little more forgiving. The front edge will need a slit made (front to back) to ensure the carpet wraps around the tunnel neatly. Ensure that the slit made will be hidden behind your console. Small slits will need to be made on the left and right hand edge also. Ensure that these slits are all hidden by the console too. Additionally, some small slits can be made at the lower section to be hidden underneath the floor pieces. The addition of the vinyl flap makes for a neat finish on the seat support rails. The seat can be reinstalled directly over this flap later. It’s a good time to make a cut for your seat bolts at this time. I find that it is easiest to glue just the top of the tunnel first and a little way down the sides. Its not necessary to glue it all the way to the floor and it allows it to be lifted later on if you want to run wiring etc. Glue firmly around the seat supports making sure to really push it down in the gaps. The paint scraper comes in handy here. Make holes now for your seat belt bolt. Do not use power tools.



3 - Left and Right sides

Likely the trickiest piece. Line up carpet with the rear of the seat support and the door sill. Start your placement by having the top edge up against the door sill seam. Lay the vinyl flap over to confirm correct position. Push in firmly and make reference to the screw holes for the sill ready for reinstallation. Offer up the sill piece and be sure that the cut edge is covered and the vinyl edge near the 'b' pillar is looking good. Be careful when screwing back in the sill. Make sure you do not catch the carpet and pull a thread. It may be useful to cut a small hole in the carpet before driving in a screw. Do not use power tools. Slow and steady. Depending on your model, you may need to make a hole for the seat lever.

Again, slowly with a blade is the way to go. Use the paint scraper again to really get it into the groove next to the seat bracket. Reinstall the lever when you place your seats and place the oval plastic piece to neaten up the cut. If you haven't got this plastic piece, you can get away with only cutting a small hole in the carpet (not the vinyl.) Make sure the carpet piece on the front face of the seat support is horizontal.

Add the forward side pieces now. the vinyl edge goes hard up against the seat support. Reinstalling the door sills can help keep it all in place. Make a hole for your seat belt bolt now too.


4 -  Left and right kickers.

Line up the unbound edge of the panel against the seam where the door pinch weld will go. You only need to glue in the first 50mm or so allowing access to the cavity behind if you ever need too. Also, the floor mat will tuck in behind it. Similarly to the rear seat support it is best to leave the vinyl flap for later. Let the glue set and wrap it around later. The left side panel will need the bonnet/hood lever removed. You will need to drive the screws in through the carpet once it is fixed in position. Make sure both of these panels are high enough just tucking in behind the under dash boards so they sit on top of the side rails.


5 - Front and Rear mats.

Start with the front. It is recommended to use a woollen or felt underlay of some sort to take out the lumps and bumps of the floor. The underlay can be cut and butted up to the tunnel piece as well as the left and right hand pieces in step 3. Avoid overlapping your new carpet with underlay. It simply adds too much bulk. Cuts will need to be made for the accelerator pedal. It can be easier to melt these holes with a soldering iron to expose the nubs (if you still have them!) that the pedal clips into. Drivers side will need to be trimmed around the pedal box. Both sides will need a horizontal cut to allow for the dash panels to be screwed in. Depending on the bulk of your sound deadener and underlay, you may need to make further adjustments. Rear mats will just drop in. I never use glue for the mats but I have stuck the mats to the underlay. It helps keep it all in place but you can remove them if you need.


Now sit back, look at your work and have a beer. You've earnt it.


The kit installed above was for Sean and Julie's 1969 2002 Auto.

Find them at:

BMW 2002 carpet kit installation Australia

BMW 2002 production years 68-74

BMW 2002 trunk mat floor mat interior restoration various carpet colours



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